2024-12-03

HASHIRI - Indulge To Enjoy

Japanese cuisine does tickle everyone’s taste buds, but outside of Japan, it is difficult to find a restaurant that truly delivers that authentic umami Japanese flavours that even the Japanese would patronise. Hashiri in The Anthenee Hotel, a Luxury Collection Hotel Bangkok does have a laser like focus on delivering sensational culinary standards that encourages you to indulge to enjoy. mylifestylenews writes.


The Athenee Hotel, a Luxury Collection under Marriott chain, is a hotel to be reckoned with when it comes to food and beverage. We had previously enjoyed a memorable culinary journey at
Silk Road that does flavoursome Cantonese cuisine and this time we were back to immerse ourselves in their newly rebrand-ed Japanese restaurant, Hashiri, which purports to indulge in playful modern Japanese haute fusion cuisine, crafted with seasonal produce by Michelin-trained Chef Alvin Chew.


Now we are always quite skeptical when we see the word fusion, because if they don’t do it right, the execution can turn into a disaster if a disguised meal were to made and presented. But in Hashiri, we were in for a pleasant surprise.


Tucked away on level three and the moment you step inside Hashiri, you get to feel a touch and a sense of Japan with sectionized wooden screens to create that oriental ambience.A quiet luxury of modern contemporary decor set the cozy and peaceful dining mood.


Chic yet zen, which is offset with some stunning modern steel hanging lamps, illuminating the dark granite tabletops contrasting the natural woods wall on one side of the main dining and the other 3D effect marble stone wall with very comfortable upholstered seating. When you adjourn further, there is an extended private dining room onto the right together with a spacious and graceful tatami dinning room for more privacy and exclusivity that is always in high demand.


Hashiri means “First harvest of the season”, which would translate as everything is fresh and it was clear from the crafted menu and conversations we had with the Chef Chew that he followed the traditional Japanese approach of only using ingredients which are in season. We decided to be ‘babes in the woods’ and let Chef Chew introduce his redefined yet playful and sophisticated menu to us with some selected highlights, we were in for a treat. The restaurant was not as busy as expected on a weekday night, so we had his undivided attention and Chef Chew was able to be our “private chef” for the entire evening.
 

<Ankimo Ice-Cream>
Our first course was an ice-cream. Yes, you hear us right! ICE-CREAM that is done in a combination of monkfish liver, watermelon and monaka (a sweet Japanese confection). At first glance we were quizzical about the description of ingredients, but we were completely bowled over by the stunning presentation – like a gourmet biscuit sandwich. The initial taste was like creamy foie gras, monkfish liver to be precise, in the texture of a silky ice-cream on the palate and then the subtle overtones with the watermelon and pickles. The presentation was superb, the entire monaka was beautifully laid on a bed of wild grass and seeds presented on a long Japanese lacquer ware that makes the dish even more appealing and appetizing. You need to “destroy” the impeccable creation to enjoy and we are sure that Chef Chew wouldn’t mind such ruthless dining behaviour.
 

<Ebi Tempura>
Three pieces of  medium size tiger prawn tempura and prawn head kaarage coated with seasoned flour and deep-fried to light and crispy texture. Despite the slight oily palate, it was tasty overall and enjoyable.
 

<Tako>
The whole octopus leg is grilled over charcoal and serve with Japanese Chimichurri dressing with airy yuzu foam. Another beautiful execution and presentation on a light stoneware highlighting the entire produce used. The octopus was expertly cooked, neither too burnt nor chewy and sliced in just the right mouthful with the overall flavour combination just perfect.
 

<Wagyu & Foie Gras Roll>
A5 Wagyu beef is used to complement the rich foie gras, cream cheese, avocado and served with the delightful yakiniku sauce. This inside-out uramaki was such a superb execution with a fabulous quality of beef and a great combination of soft and crunchy textures. The sauce complimented the meat and was not overpowering allowing for the perfect balance of flavours. Simply Oishi!
 

<Cold Walnut Soba>
Act II - another playful innovation to enjoy a cold zaru soba created by Chef Chew. Buckwheat noodles, walnut paste, nitrogen, walnut oil and nanami (seven roots and seeds). The nitrogen is poured into a bowl, into which drops of walnut oil are sprayed that turns into a granita which is then placed on the soba, which have a beautiful sheen due to the walnut oil and then to be enjoyed by dipping into an ultra-flavour home-made sauce. This is a stunning presentation and flavour that cannot be faulted and there is culinary genius behind the showiness. A wow factor guaranteed! So kudos to the Chef Chew for creating the excitement right in front of our eyes, translating into food that tastes superbly delicious!
 

<Broccolini>
The menu From the Land came with the chargrill-ed broccolini with miso Cauda dressing, which is an Italian dipping sauce for vegetable and fine bread croutons with a robust combination of garlic and anchovy topped with a bed of nori for an alternative palate. A great east meets west that brought into a happy marriage.


<Beef Cheek & Foie Gras Claypot>
36 hours braised beef cheek, foie gras and truffled Koshihikari rice. The beef cheek was braised in red wine, soy sauce and some spices in the sous vide. The short grain Koshihikari rice has the right amount of stickiness and sweetness and is soaked in white truffle oil and salted kelp, mirin and sake. Expertly cooked beef that falls apart with one touch; creamy foie gras; a light crunchy burnt scorched rice at the bottom from the claypot that creates an overall delicious flavour combination. Faultless and a fabulous dish that ticks all the boxes.
 

<Sweet Potato Ice Cream>
Beni Haruka sweet potato, salted tofu ice-cream and rosemary. A very delicious soft, fluffy texture with a fragrant sweet taste combination dessert that was executed in subtle flavours and so moreish.


<Miso Cheesecake>
Sweet and savory combined. The white Saikyo Miso is a perfect seasoning with an elegant sweetness and a mild salty flavour that adds more depth on the cheese cake that was served with assorted berries. A truly great alternative cheesecake that is soft and gooey which we loved.


We were suitably impressed with the evenings culinary expertise. Chef Chew and his culinary team really surprised us on more than one occasion with some touches of culinary genius that were not just for show, so this has to be experienced firsthand. The plating throughout the course of the menu is so beautiful and admirable yet inspiring. With each dish served on individual plates that add to the experience and this is what you would experience in Japanese dining culture. We felt truly immersed in the elements of Japanese cuisine of the freshest of ingredients used.
 

Regardless as to whether you enjoy to indulge or indulge to enjoy, to be able to experience a good harvest from the current season is best to define the freshest produce used. On top of that, having the know-how by making the best out of the seasonal precious ingredients and present them onto the table with great culinary skill, Chef Chew’s interpretation blending traditional flavours with innovative technique is a triumph!


Tried & Tested:
Location: 4.5/5
Design & Decor: 4/5
Service: 4/5
Food & Beverage: 4.5/5
Value For Money: 4/5
Experience: 4/5

61 Wireless Road,
Lumphini, Phatum Wan, 
Bangkok Thailand
Tel: +66 2 650 8800

Reviews are based on actual day of visit and experience. mylifestylenews reserves the right of final decision in case of any disputes. All images are photographed by mylifestylenews team without any photoshop enhancement and are the property owned by mylifestylenews unless otherwise stated.

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