Tiffany
& Co.’s new flagship store at One Peking Road hosted its very first
official event recently to celebrate the past and present by presenting A Day of Splendor: The Archival Collection & The Legendary Designs of Jean Schlumberger exhibition.
An exposition of the extraordinary, Tiffany’s grand flagship
store became home to the innovative creativity of one of Tiffany’s most
visionary jewelers - and like a museum displaying masterpieces, it allowed
guests to view both the exclusive Jean Schlumberger Archival Collection as well
as Tiffany’s latest pieces in The Legendary Designs of Jean Schlumberger
Collection.
Jean Schlumberger Archival
Collection
Jean
Schlumberger Archival Collection is most essentially the collected extent works
of the legendary designer – the products of a lifetime of dedication and
imagination in the art of jewelry. More a portrait of an artist than that of a mere
manufacturer of goods, 15 pieces from the Archival Collection encapsulates the
unique personality and creative perspective of one of the 20th century’s
greatest jewelers.
From
the delicate Trophee de Vaillance Clip – designed for Diana Vreeland, the
celebrated Editor-in-Chief of Vogue magazine, and rendered in gold-mesh,
diamonds, blue enamel and amethysts – to the incredible Tassles Suite –
a necklace of twisted gold rope chain set with emeralds, diamonds, and golden
tassels of intensely varying designs – the Archival Collection expresses the
beautiful and irreverent, indeed the daring aesthetics that made up Jean
Schlumberger’s artistic vision.
The innovative mind and connection
with nature
From
such dramatic pieces of high jewelry, the Archival Collection moves to also
display his more sympathetic, whimsical pieces that show his unique sense of
humor. Hexagonal Gold Boxes with triangular facets in gold and white
enamel are emblematic of this exceptional approach to design. So too a set of Brooch
and Ear Clips which feature large central rubies in collet setting
surrounded by concentric circles of diamonds and rubies. Striking compositions,
the enamel Concombre Cigarette Case and
Lighter displays the profound connection of Jean Schlumberger with nature,
his unique point of view
on details and visual rhythms – a trait that allowed this great jeweler to
capture the hearts and minds of such storied individuals as Lady “Slim” Keith,
the New York fashion icon, and the aforementioned Diana Vreeland during his
lifetime.
The
Archival and Legendary Masterpieces
The link between past and present can be found
in The Legendary Designs of Jean Schlumberger Collection, an homage to the fantastical imagination of renowned jeweler Jean Schlumberger, whose imaginative and passionate approach to
jewelry design has been captured in four distinct themes in this collection: ‘Fantasy’, ‘Flora’, ‘Fauna’ and ‘Icons’.
A classic design, Schlumberger’s choker necklace
features diamond-covered platinum leaves from which hang 20 amethyst drops
mounted in gold and set with 715 diamonds. As sophisticated as it is daring,
the basic unity of design becomes an inspirational force in the new Star and
Moon Necklace, which mix asymmetry with new focalizing gemstones and motifs
to breathe exquisite new life into the innovations of Schulmberger himself.
The Ribbon Powder Case features intertwining
gold ribbons, that all meet at a central point – the simple yet effective
statement in gold capturing the eye with its restrained sense of beauty.
Opening the center of the basic design, the Ribbon Bangle breaks up the
tight design of the compact into glimmering lightness, the addition of empty
space and diamonds giving the piece a sense of freedom.
Overlapping gold strands are part of the classic
piece, each centering a diamond and elaborating on flame-inspired motifs – the Gold
and Platinum Necklace being made for Hattie Carnegie. Drawing from
Carnegie’s necklace, the Fringe Necklace takes the elegance of
Schlumberger’s strands and straightens them into a modern silhouette, the
classic made new through the addition of exquisite gemstones.
From exploring his most irreverent designs to illustrating his
masterful aesthetics, the pieces of the collection demonstrate the breathtaking
virtuosity with which the legendary jeweler renders the natural world into
bejeweled form – from the prismatic interplay of color and texture, precious
gemstones and exquisite settings that elucidates his whimsical point of view,
to the fluid shapes and sophisticated forms that captures nature’s poetic grace
in everlasting beauty.
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