LOEWE’s AW2018/17 Women fashion show was held at the concrete angles of Hall Ségur and the intimate art-filled Salle Miró, both at Maison de l’Unesco, Paris. A simultaneously sophisticated and cool collection cut through with flashes of wit and twists of humour, showcasing the house’s technical expertise and continued redefining and refining of the modernist codes laid out over the last three seasons.
At its centre, skirts and dresses that accentuate the shape of the body through a variety of advanced methods. The placement of every pleat is studied, garments are designed to form a second skin, a skirt’s cut calculated for precise movement.
Experimentation pervades. Oversize deconstructed cotton shirts become dresses, while workwear coats are rendered in padded twill, articulating their utilitarian ethos in new, unexpected ways.
A play of opposites also dictates the collection’s material gamut.
As in previous seasons, natural fabrics juxtapose synthetics, as in an organic bamboo jersey paired with nylon and in raw-edged silks alternated with wrinkled viscose.
Novel textures are created by knitting industrial rubber bands into skirts and in a dress made out of chain-mail composed from hardware store hoops.
Thought-out reconfiguration yields a lighter, more modern idea of tweed.
Ornamentation is equally high in technique and engineered rather than applied. Metal hardware is integrated into garments to build a familiar silhouette through innovative means.
Touches of gold come in a boxcalf bustier hand-painted with gold leaf for a spare, ancient effect and on silicone artwork prints.
Among many bags, the Amazona takes the spotlight, present here in three new styles including a multi-pocket variation pairing functionality with playful aesthetics.
While the new Joyce bag, with its prominent circular gold logo plate, completes the collection, an irresistible hand-painted napa neck pendant in the shape of a cat’s face anchors it firmly in the culture of our times.
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