2016-05-04

Porterhouse By LARIS At Its Best


What are the points of difference with so many premium steak house options in Hong Kong and yet didn’t get it right with and minimal return guests? The definition of a good steakhouse means quality meat at the right price and steaks are the reason for David Laris deciding to let Hong Kongers in on his secret and the fact is there is something affordable for everyone.  By mylifestylenews.


We love food to taste how it looks, plus great provenance matters a lot in our world and Porterhouse by LARIS has it in spades. The breadth and pricing of the menu means there is something for everyone and yes, if you want some exceptional and very special cuts of steaks, they can surely deliver.



Since our last visit 5 months ago, Porterhouse by LARIS quality of standard remains as outstanding as we could remember. Simplicity is also the order of the day and that makes for a great night out with superb floor staff to guide you through every step of the dining experience.



Since flinging open its doors a year ago within the acclaimed California Tower in Lan Kwai Fong, Porterhouse by LARIS’ understated elegance décor and refinement strikes the right mix of upscale chic-ness that exudes a warmth and sophistication which you immediately feel very comfortable in.


The menu construction looks simple but the ingredients and skill in the kitchen are not. Before Porterhouse by LARIS was opened, David interviewed several beef suppliers and found out everything about the farms themselves and tasted every variety possible before choosing his range of steaks according to the cut of meat and where it is farmed. The beef is confined to Linz Heritage USDA, on and off the bone, Tasmania grass-fed Wagyu from and A4 Wagyu from Japan. The steaks in Porterhouse are aged in-house with simple seasoning – salt and pepper and finish in the charcoal oven before serving with an array of sides.


Selection of premium salts to enhance your steak.



Understated elegant chic decor at Porterhouse by LARIS.



The <Porterhouse Caesar Salad> looked the goods, with grilled romaine, pancetta, roasted garlic dressing and Grana Padano cheese. This is by far one of the best we have ever tasted, with a full half grilled lettuce, not chopped, it was a surprise and we loved it. The pancetta was also a highlight, apparently it was glazed with smoky bacon with maple juice.


There is a focus on seafood and many rich pickings, but the <Seared Diver Scallops> with curried pumpkin puree, roasted cauliflower and raisins took our eye. The scallops were firm and cooked just right, married beautifully with the other ingredients, particularly the pumpkin.


A <Cream of Mushroom> and Signature <Beef & Barley Brood> soups changed the course of our palates with beautifully light and rich flavours in both offerings. The mushroom soup includes white wine and lemon juice, thereby creating a less dense texture and the beef soup was utterly tasty and almost like a consommé, so each was a winner.



And so to the focus of the evening – steaks! There was a choice of two from the kitchen as a surprise: a <U.S. Rib-Eye> on the bone and a <Wagyu Sirloin>. These two are chalk and cheese. The Wagyu has a high fat content and can seem almost too rich at times, but incredibly tender and oozing great flavor.


The Rib-Eye had that gorgeous grainy texture (grain fed, of course.) and so easy to cut and a depth of flavor with every bite. Both portions were very generous plus you get five different salts and multiple mustards to choose from, the possibilities are endless to make your own flavours on the side.



But the chef insisted that we must try the <Sweet Potato Fries> (devil-ishly delicious), <Brie Potato Mash> and <Creamed Spinach> as sides, which took us to the limit, but the sides are almost a highlight in themselves and not to be missed.


As if that wasn’t enough, another surprise was the <King Crab Legs> which looked as outstanding as it taste.



The desserts were calling us, but we felt that our appetites had reached the limit until Chef Laris insisted that we share a <Chocolate Fondant>. We couldn’t refuse his offer and just as well, as this is the dessert to take sweet memories home with. The rich melted chocolate inside came with the perfectly toasted sponge outside is to die for. You have the right reason not to share this dessert but to enjoy completely by yourself.


The Sommelier came up with a great ‘wine’ pairing for this one, a Mead – a traditional drink made out of honey but not grapes that has hundreds of years of history behind it . It had a very dry finish, quite the perfect foil for the richness of the chocolate Fondant We can’t rave enough about Porterhouse by Laris as there are so many delights to be had from their wonderful and talented hands in the kitchen, plus its simple elegance of interior design and no fuss classically constructed menu speaks volumes to us.



Tried & Tested:
Location: 4.5/5
Design & Decor: 4/5
Food & Beverage: 5/5
Service: 4/5
Value For Money: 4/5
Experience: 5/5

Highlights :
Steaks
Sweet Potato
Chocolate Fondant

 7/F, California Tower,
30-36 D'Aguilar Street
Lan Kwai Fong, Central
Hong Kong
Tel: +852 2522 6366

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