2024-10-21

WE ARE SELLING DREAMS, EMOTIONS AND ENTERTAINMENT 我們賣的是夢想,情感和娛樂


WE ARE SELLING DREAMS,
EMOTIONS AND ENTERTAINMENT
售賣夢想,情感和娛樂的時尚


時尚設計師的宿命短暫,能升任多一時,就效命多一時,他朝分離,另覓金主,無可厚非。相克带来的两败俱伤虽难被安耐,你(品牌)欲看到的只有美丽的海,他(设计师)卖了苦力也要生活,起码在精神或经济支柱方面可寻栖息之处。设计受爱戴或指责,没得选。一个时代的终结,又是另一个时代的崛起,VALENTINO 易帅风暴一触即发,被取代的 Pierpaolo Piccioli 叔叔,成为时尚界最大的奢侈品牌之一的新任创意总监,正是前GUCCI 创意总监更是Harry Style 和 Billie Eilish 等众星至爱的 Alessandro Michele


Michele 在 GUCCI 任命的期间吸粉无数,屡创佳绩,自2022 年 11 月离职 GUCCI 后,过档新东家的消息结束了业界对他下一步去向的许多猜测。东家打完打西家,转会,转会,再转会,悉心好好做好这份工,功不可没,自然就会有旧粉诚心供养灌溉和新粉入会埋单。 Michele 的死忠“米粉”不用再花生看戏舆论,这个天大喜讯可让铁粉们得以安眠,睡个好觉。


成功非嚣幸,所有美丽的背后也一定隐藏著丑陋的一面,要给你看到的只是最美一面。


月前,MAISON VALENTINO “华府”在其官方社交媒体更新的条文有其品牌首席执行官 Jacopo Venturini 于 Financial Times Fashion 的独家采访, 更“温馨明示”决定每年只展示一次品牌的高级定制系列,并推出两个年度男女混合成衣系列的原因。 Venturini 反思了奢侈品行业的现状,解释了并强化了品牌对深思熟虑、有影响力的展示的承诺:“奢侈品系统变得太机械化了。 We are selling dreams, emotions, and entertainment - 售卖的是梦想、情感和娱乐。 We don’t give the time to breathe between one expression of creativity and another。” 


的确,我们没有给予足够的时间和空间喘息,好让我们悉心鉴赏和爱惜那些设计背后的创作理念。通过限制这些表演和展示的频率,促进创作过程与消费者之间的更深层次联系,有更多时间充分欣赏每件设计艺术愿景。


终于,大大品牌开始领悟及愿意尝试去了解慢工出细活(细货及稀货)的乾坤,也算是对时尚的一种致敬和迈向另一个好的开端。在同一个品牌一年内反复不断的时尚展和推出的系列计算,不但减弱和榨干设计师和团队的设计灵感,同时更是逼迁设计师们离职的主轴因由之一,虽然(被)离职的设计师没有明枪指向某某,创作理念、心思及构想,季而复季的时装展加添混淆视觉,也对刚推出的系列难以对照回实则的当季设计。


例:今夏可购买的已是明夏的设计,这 FOMO(Fear of Missing Out) 的怕执输态度,叫谁来埋单? !与此同时,这举止也叫消费者喘不过气,追不上潮流已被潮流掩盖。购买的同一品牌时尚也只不过是千篇一律的慵懒设计,为设计而设计,为尝试催告销售而设计的改良设计。精明的消费者也不再死忠于同一品牌上,可购买得到和性价比更高得其它时尚品牌多的是。 The Competition is Out There!


VALENTINO 在新任过档的创意总监Alessandro Michele 领旨后和带领下,其鲜明文艺复古招牌式设计、性别的流动性、Klook 时尚主义、媚俗和无所顾忌的怪异时尚美学与近年来盛行的低调奢华截然相反。品牌首个高级定制系列,也是 2025 年唯一推出的高级定制系列将于明年一 月在巴黎亮相。


Michele 曾言,能为这品牌效劳,是一种难以置信的荣誉。加入一家以独特的优雅、精致和极致优雅为特色的集体故事中刻有‘美’一词的高级定制品牌,让他感到无比的喜悦和肩负巨大的责任。品牌自成立以来,“华府”一直致力于艺术,始终将创造力和人放在中心位置。年复一年,这种方法一直是品牌的一个独特组成部分。


他在2022 年告诉《卫报》:“时尚是一件神奇的事情,因为我们穿在身上走向世界的力量让它变得神秘。如果没有我们穿着它们生活,衣服就只是布料。“ Michele 为品牌设计的首个系列刚于日前在巴黎时装周上亮相,是延续了在GUCCI 时代的使命,还是为VALENTINO 设计的GUCCI 系列,抑或这根本就是Alessandro Michele 的同名设计? !有人欢喜有人愁,你又何以见解?不如先图为快!


2024-10-18

MB&F x Eddy Jaquet Releases A Second Series of Eight Unique Pieces

The previous collaboration with Eddy Jaquet, launched in 2020 and inspired by the novels of Jules Verne; that first series of eight unique pieces would go on to win the prestigious GPHG Artistic Crafts Award in 2021. A few years later, MB&F announced a new collaboration reunited with their good friend and Master Engraver Eddy Jaquet.


The new deal is to release a second series of eight unique pieces, this time inspired by the great classic of youth literature. The Three Musketeers, The Jungle Book and Robinson Crusoe have just been completed; they will be joined by The Call of the Wild, The Last of the Mohicans, Moby-Dick, Robin Hood and Treasure Island.


The friendship between MB&F with Eddy Jaquet goes back to well over a decade, since he has been engraving the flowing script on their Legacy Machines – but that's just a tiny hint of his immense artistic talent. Eddy's transformative touch can turn a watch – in this case, the Legacy Machine Split Escapement – ​​into a rich storytelling tapestry. From a first list of 15 classic novels, Eddy selected eight that he then synthesized into entirely original illustrations. Like his Jules Verne series, none of the illustrations imagined by Eddy Jaquet are drawn from existing works of art; they are entirely conceived by the artist after reading the source books and viewing other creative works. Each engraving is an intricate tableau of the heroes, scenes and key moments from the novels, expressly designed to be interpreted through the medium of the LM Split Escapement.


Each novel is directly engraved on the LM SE movement's dial plate, modified to 18K white gold for this series of eight unique pieces. Each piece comes in a stainless steel case, with a slimmer bezel and openworked black subdials offering a fuller view of Eddy's masterpieces. Retail price of each unique piece is CHF 158,000 + VAT (USD 188,000 + tax).