2024-08-19

A RATIONALE OF BEAUTIES - MIU MIU 的唯美邏輯


A RATIONALE OF BEAUTIES
MIU MIU的唯美邏輯


由 Miuccia Prada妙姨主理的Miu Miu 2024春夏系列要你探索现今世代美丽的逻辑依据,美丽的时刻、历史的点滴、生命的零碎,置身瞬息万变的世界,美丽定必与这个错综复杂的时代环环相扣,同时将之推翻拆解并重新定义。


是次系列寻找引发反思的定义,并对摩登时代的美作出回馈,时装与模特儿均彰显每个独立个体的特殊意义。系列设计融入对以往价值观的记忆,透过借镜往昔风格特显历史的重要性与意义,并重新考量,要呈现的并非刻板的范例,而是波澜壮阔的丰富面貌;带出多面而非单一的美态,去拥抱独特的个性和颂扬生命的喜乐。


系列借鉴昔日的设计可同时成为学习的工具、发掘意义的方式和建立与人文的深切关系。这是将人、生活与经验连系起来的方式,好比洗水、仿旧、留痕的麂皮及皮革服饰留下的生活痕迹,透过以更时尚手法去表达时光飞逝带出新欢旧爱的概念。


时装与意图、目的及用处的关联同时亦带出匠心设计的理念及服装的雏形传递重要的意义。妙姨的A Rationale of Beauty唯美逻辑,在游走对与错之间和看似不太合衬的造型审美的同时,可能在无意间会把你心底的欲望暴露出来,让你看到欲望最真实的本质。从泳装、运动服、晚装、男装泳裤、马海羊毛西装、古董内衣、New Balance 530运动鞋、Church’s Shanghai皮鞋到优雅刺绣及织锦连身裙,为特定用途、功能及场合精心构思的服饰在时装展上以惊喜的方式混搭起来去呈现现世代的时尚风格,轮流反映时下不同的生命轨迹、当代人的多重身份及无尽可能的正能量。


品牌与当代艺术家之间的互动从未刻意设计成时装的点缀。这些艺术家独立自主,拥有一致的睿智观点,各自以当下为要旨。今季,卡塔尔裔美国艺术家Sophia Al-Maria伙拍OMA,在巴黎Palais d’Iéna内虚构历史,将Miu Miu时装展布置成以高科技打造的废墟。Al-Maria的精心杰作「Gravity & Grace」描绘真实与虚幻之间的对峙,清晰阐述作品整体的意图。她透过从古至今源远流长的人文历史,探索诉说故事的意义,以传递历史、分享现下和想像未来。


对时尚的态度,往往要有独特的观察力,很多时候,你看不到一件事物的美,只因为是缺乏悉心的观察力。时尚的哲学可曾让我们了解为社么时尚达人会被如此设计的时尚所吸引,以及拒绝从众和拥抱幽默和不可力抗的想象力,甚至是非理性对当前时刻的观点和看法不那么立足与此时此地,透过不同层面和跨媒体的联乘和合体创作,打造出不同领域的梦幻。潮流是瞬息万变的, 要懂得如何去感受美的存在,著重细节与饰品方面的配搭,籍此来凸显自己的个性和风格是必然的。这个系列重新卷土重来带来的颂歌,又会由谁和谁来埋单。爱若非所爱,你可能不稀罕。同时,假使什么观点都不对,难道又要符合你的标准才叫正常么?!


2024-08-16

Hermès Presents The ARCEAU Grand Tralala Brides et Mors Watch

Hermès presents the 
ARCEAU Grand Tralala brides et mors watch tracing equestrian motifs intertwine on a sparkling white or intense black dial, rose gold and diamonds. This precious 34 mm-diameter case reinterprets the design of the Grand Tralala silk scarf designed by French artist Virginie Jamin. A tribute to the Hermès equestrian tradition, the colourful bridles/and gleaming bits evoke the prestigious harnesses worn by the Royal Hungarian Bodyguard in the 19th century.


Created by Henri d’Origny in 1978, the Arceau watch embodies the Hermès style: its understated and timeless round shape set on a ‘stirrup’ highlights a singular nature composed of subtle details. Dotted with 64 diamonds and topped by a gemset crown, its rose gold case frames a spangled white lacquered or deep black dial. On the dial of the Arceau Grand Tralala, bridles and bits intertwine in the brilliance of rose gold and 110 diamonds, forming a graphic yet dainty decoration. Enlivened by a small bit-shaped seconds hand, the model is driven by a Manufacture Hermès H1912 movement revealed through the sapphire crystal case-back. Crafted in the Hermès Horloger workshops, a smooth chantilly or black alligator strap matches the dial colour.


Hermès creates objects. Objects shaped by the 
hands of artisans to make them true companions for those who wear them. Practical, functional and stemming from uncompromising expertise, they radiate the lightness of the unexpected. They make everyday life their playground, and each instant a uniquely special moment. For Hermès, time is also an object. Its inherent tension is translated by the house into a singular characteristic. Rather than measuring, ordering, and seeking to control it, Hermès dares to explore another time, designed to arouse emotions, open up interludes and create spaces for spontaneity and recreation.