Perched high above in Central Hong Kong is
a modern French restaurant and lounge that is popular with those in the know, mylfestylenews experiences this intimate
space and begin a love affair with a new location and new menu to try ON……
This hideaway is just hidden behind Queens Road Central on On Lan Street and located on the 28th and 29th floors of a fairly new building with a narrow footprint. With a lounge and terrace on the top floor and the restaurant below, it doesn’t take long before either spaces are packed with conviviality and groups of people enjoying the intimacy, resulting in a long night of celebration.
We came specifically for the contemporary modern French’s cooking and thus quite keen to start sampling the menu. On Dinning gastronomy is a classic approach, discernible from scanning the menu and realizing that the modern means a twist on the classics.
We threw caution to the wind and went straight to the <Spicy Beef & Tuna Tartare with Parmesan Crisps> as our first dish. Morsel by morsel, you could taste the spice which was a very pleasant change and the parmesan crisps just adding another dimension in the mouth. The tuna and beef textures provided a point of difference to each other while being complimentary at the same time. This was a great start to our culinary journey from Chef Philipe Orrico.
Our next step involved a <Wild Mushroom Penne with Parmesan Cheese>. This was text book cooking with the pasta perfectly al dente, but the aromas from the mushrooms were so delicious and at the forefront of this dish. The forest floor flavor was sensational and we wished we had a bigger portion, but we also knew that so much more was in store, so caution was a virtuous thing in portion sizes.
We decided to try bird dishes for our mains (both imported from France of course), we started with the smallest, which was a <Roasted Pigeon with Artichokes, Baby Spinach and Lemon Chutney>. The meat of the pigeon was a pleasantly surprise and it was so easy to cut with juices flowing from the meat and seasoned to perfection. One could not ask for a more as pigeon can sometimes be lacking in all these elements but we were impressed and such a memorable dish.
The duck was entirely another matter, as ON offers <Roasted Duck Apicius> – duck done two ways with the first course a duck breast with young carrots, parsnip puree and orange scent and secondly a duck leg confit with pearl barley and jus. Stage one was intense in flavor, with beautiful dark meat add live to the palette.
There was ample succulent and rich meat to enjoy that not a single piece was left on the plate. The vegetables were the perfect foil for the richness of the duck, assisting to continually cleanse the palate so the meat could be enjoyed over and over again.
Stage two was equally impressive with a lighter touch – the barley adding a cleansing contrast to the rich meat and you could feel the tenderness with your knife. The meat was just falling away from the bone and once tasted, chewed slowly to enjoy every ounce of flavor. Each method of preparation was expertly done and quite clearly with passion to be able to give us so much pleasure in eating it. This is a highly recommended dish while dining at ON.
We questioned our ability to eat any more, but the Chef is passionate about cheese, so we had to try a little before the dessert. We sampled hard, soft and blue cheese on the platter and each taste could not be faulted. A great way to ‘cleanse’ and prepare for further rich offerings.
some torte with ice cream and a fruit plate with foam and tuiles. Like all the other food before it, it piqued our interest as soon as the plates arrived. These were classic French desserts that coated the palate in unctuous flavours. The <Sokoto Chocolate Cake & Vanilla Ice Cream> is rich yet with the perfect hint of sweetness and the <Lime Panna Cotta, Grapefruit Sorbet & Orange> is a delightful end with the French culinary journey.
The evening was finally replete and it was not difficult to describe the evening as utterly memorable. Every menu item never failed to leave a longing for more. With all the dishes had been lovingly paired with superb wines expertly chosen by the Operation Manger & Sommelier, Nicolas Deneux whose knowledge is beyond compare. The food was even more elevated by his choices, creating a special celebration of food and all that goes with it. It was extra special when Nicolas convinced us to try some unusual tipples, such as the Arbois Vin Jaune and a Malvasia Old Reserve Madeira Barbeito to go with the cheese, which we had never tried before and we were hooked!
The staff deliver service with finesse and display a passion for the food and wine that is unquestionably genuine and heartfelt. There is something about French cuisine that when it is this good, you feel like you are immersed in their gastronomy culture at that moment in time. We wait with anticipation to try other menu items on our next visit, as this restaurant is well on the way to becoming one of Hong Kong’s pre-eminent places to dine.
Some great dessert wine to pair that you could easily hooked.
Tried & Tested:
Location: 4.5/5
Design & Decor: 3.5/5
Food & Beverage: 5/5
Service: 4.5/5
Value For Money: 4/5
Highlights :
Cheese Selection
29F 18 On Lan Street
Central Hong Kong
Tel: +852 2174 8100
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