2014-10-23

Salvatore Ferragamo @ FW2014/15 Women Collection


Salvatore Ferragamo FW2014/15 women collection both touch and sight are intrigued, seduced and captivated: mysteries unfold; the impossible is achieved through the mastery of craftsmanship; fictional surfaces are created from the complex intertwining of needle punching and jacquard. The focus revolves around the altered states of luxurious materials, energy contained by the precision of fine tailoring, a defining element of the Ferragamo codes under the creative direction of Massimiliano Giornetti.


The atelier as a laboratory. The protagonist is the process of ongoing creation and transformation: tactile and chromatic fusions, dense surfaces that fade into evanescent grain, light fabrics that evolve with volume and substance, opacities that seemingly melt, illuminate and add new dimensions, textures that blend together. The collection is warm, inviting, sensual. The ongoing dialogue between weight and its negation, density and transparency, consistency and lightness translates into a lively balance involved in a continuous metamorphosis.


 Strong coats, architecturally designed capes and small blousons with sculptural necklines mask the delicacy of light dresses; thick mohair sweaters shelter skirts constructed with exquisitely treated pleats. The surprises are endless: ribbons composing a skirt unfold to illuminate a precious surface; a Persian coat is an eclectic luxury of marmot or beaver fur; a vest worn under a blouson and long skirt create unexpected movement while unfinished details suggest perfect imperfections. Layering is textured, embellished and multifaceted: fading paintings, intertwining knots, exposed pleats, and evaporating spots. Flowing waist dresses, neckless coats, caressing shirts and pleated skirts outline a vertical and vibrant silhouette.


 The colour palette is pulp, melting: an investigation of black, coffee brown, chocolate, sand and camel are mixed with brick red, amber grey with accents of bronze. The accessories represent strong elements that play a balancing role in the game of contrasts. Tall boots and high crocodile leather heeled shoes entertain uneven colour effects and golden inlayed eyelets, highly designed handles on crocodile or Persian fur shoppers and metallic handles on elongated doctor bags. The jewels, designed in collaboration with Daniela Villegas -metal castings, alchemical scarabs- summarize the transforming character of the collection in fantastic hybrids of organic and mineral nature.


Daniela Villegas is a jewellery designer inspired by the beautiful changes of nature and the intricacy of human interaction. Villegas views life as a playground, her daily life is a constant blur of colours, which can be seen in her designs. Her rich exploration of materials is present in every collection as she integrates natural elements such as wood, feathers, pebbles and insects, with 18K gold and precious stones. Her colourful expressions are particularly crafted with the utmost detail and designed with the intention to spread joy and happiness in every piece.


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