2014-10-17

Salvatore Ferragamo @ FW2014/15 Men Collection


 Salvatore Ferragamo FW2014/15 Men Collection is a new form of elegance comprised of combinations marrying taste and culture. Clean lines and nomadic surfaces unite to form intimate and archetypal dimensions. Massimiliano Giornetti explores the tactile sensuality of material and the organic quality of colour, envisaging a wardrobe where the purity of the tailoring stands out and is paramount to the intrinsic weaving.


The precise architecture of the construction, a defining trait of the Ferragamo lexicon, acquires a new height, suggesting a merging of the urban environment and a more intimate lifestyle where privacy contaminates the public domain and the calm of domesticity dilutes metropolitan rigour without eliminating it. Small but significant drifts in design characterise this focus towards the inner construction: weaves and nuances stolen from a rug and distributed on jackets and coats; the fringes of a blanket hidden in the yolk of a lining; a dressing gown that becomes outerwear.


The silhouette, clean and sharp, is expressed through pieces that condense the basic language of men's garments, reinterpreting it in a compact and essential way: small blousons, shortened jackets, duffle coats, Ulster coats, peacoats, and slimly tailored trousers. This conciseness brings focus to the surfaces: never flat, varied colours and sensual.


Faded jacquards and graphic stripes on coats and field jackets, jerseys with voluptuous sleeves, weaves that seduce and invite closer examining, brushing that gives the tailoring a vibrant quality. Inserts and overlap effects upset the apparent level of precision: a hood that protrudes, leather details, bomber jacket with knitwear sleeves. Shirts with embellished edges are envisaged as utilitarian jackets.


The colour palette is organic with unexpected intrusions: beige, cream, sesame, caramel, rusty notes and sage, contrast with shades of blue, from Dutch to Midnight. The quest for colour tactility continues in the accessories: boots and monkstraps with thick soles, with
different colour variations, oversized polo bags with visible grain or in rug weaves.


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