Created in 1969 as a variation of the
legendary El Primero, it combines the performances of the world’s most accurate
automatic chronograph with triple calendar and moonphase indications. Steadily
perpetuated over the years, it now appears in a form bridging past and present,
orchestrated around a display loyal to the historical model, while the case
displays resolutely contemporary lines. While one man took
a small step that proved a giant leap for mankind by walking on the moon,
Zenith did much the same for watchmaking that same year. After seven years of
research, the Manufacture presented El Primero, the first ever integrated
automatic chronograph, also equipped with a date and a tachometric scale. It
was already an impressive feat in itself, backed by exceptional precision since
the calibre beat at the exceptional speed of 36,000 vibrations an hour,
corresponding to 1/10th of a second precision. That same year,
buoyed by the daring that has guided its steps since its founding in 1865, as
confirmed by the over 300 patents registered to date, the Manufacture Zenith
further rolled back the boundaries of its art by equipping its calibre that
had become an instant watch industry icon with triple calendar and moonphase
indications. The name of this movement also born in 1969 was the El Primero
3019 PHF, later referenced as 410. Built around a column wheel and endowed with
a 50-hour power reserve, like all the El Primero movements that would punctuate
the Zenith collections, Calibre 410 made its way through the decades until the
year 2000 thanks to remarkable reliability coupled with extraordinary
precision. But icons never die, and Zenith is now reviving it in 2013 in a
500-piece limited series featuring a slate grey dial. Almost half a
century after its creation, El Primero Calibre 410 has evolved in various ways,
including having a complete model named after it and finding its way back into
the legendary El Primero collection. Introduced this year with a silver-toned
dial, it reproduces the original function layout in a distinctively 1970s
spirit. The days and months are counted off at 10 and 2 o'clock respectively, while
the date remains imperturbably enthroned between 4 and 5 o’clock. Merging into
the hour subdial at 6 o’clock, the moonphase depicts the revolutions of the
night star through a special-shaped aperture with two rounded cut-outs
reproducing the dark part of the moon. The latter thus reveals its successive
phases – and faces – throughout its cycle (waxing moon, full moon, waning moon,
new moon). The disc bearing two moons is driven by a 59-toothed wheel
corresponding to two lunar cycles (2 x 29.5 days). This is a model that
reinvents the subtlety of the moonphase function by combining technique with
poetry. The
Manufacture-made complications of El Primero Calibre 410 are fairly classic,
yet nonetheless rare. While Zenith wished to preserve the authentic character of
an icon 20th century icon, it has succeeded in infusing it with “that
little something extra” that imparts a modern touch and makes it truly unique.
Appearing in a contemporary 42 mm size, the steel case displays decidedly
on-trend curves with alternating polished and brushed finishes. The round
chronograph pushpieces proclaim their originality, while the snailed counters
create a subtle contrast with the sunray dial motif. Rimmed by the tachometric
scale on the opaline inner bezel ring, the rhodium hour-markers stand out
clearly to ensure perfect readability, while the Zenith star on the tip of the
blue central chronograph seconds hand flies around the dial as if to underscore
its prestigious kinship with the world’s most accurate series-made chronograph.
The beating pulse of an authentic Manufacture model driven by the daring spirit
of the one that will forever remain “the first”, the El Primero Calibre 410
reveals its fascinating 390-part mechanism through the sapphire crystal
case-back. It brings to the wrist the unique pleasure of owning an icon.
No comments:
Post a Comment