Salvatore Ferragamo FW2013/14 Men & Women Collection

Salvatore Ferragamo FW2013/14 Women Collection is a sign of simplicity and construction, of composed sensuality. Massimiliano Giornetti conceives a collection filled with architectural neatness. The essence of shapes reveals the precision of cut, the consistency of texture and depth of the design. The exceptional craftsmanship of the Florentine House traces a path, marking the skin of the dress blended with its DNA, both pervasive and silent. The figure is sculpted and springs from the firm and sharp shoulder line. Modern silhouettes are created by moving, sliding and layering, highlighted by the geometric progression of patterns and by overlaying, real or implied by nets.

 The body is slightly perceived through the assertive nonchalance of oversized outfits. The tailoring is streamlined in constructions that boast the accuracy of blueprints. Masculine inspired coats fold with fast and basic movement. The effects of overlapping result in a hybrid of technical performance and a taste for fine tailoring, while metallic details enhance the waistline with a hard-edge of rising light. The dualism between severity and lightness define the woman of Ferragamo, who acquires strength in her search for virtuosity, aligned with an expression of true craftsmanship. Short dresses worn over impalpable scoop neck tops move, fold and turn into one seem-less piece, drawing a shifting outline around the body. Zippers create an imaginary path through the seams as ‘scars’.

 Researching a dynamic balance, the elimination of the unnecessary emphasizes the design. Textures and patterns are amplified: masculine inspired pinstriped suits, geometric prints, nets, netted marquetry and PVC inserts provide each element with a feeling of modular depth. Fabric coated metallic details soften the shine of embroideries evolving them into a sequence of external signs.

The fabrics are robust and created by a performance of a technical touch and a voluptuous and tactile approach. Dry silk wool, hand line nylon on a pony-like wool, paired with luxurious pony, alpaca, mohair and beaver fur. The color palette is reductionist: grey, white, blue and black. The accessories present a graphic and sensual tone.

 Recurrent is the tying gesture as it cages and seduces: shoes, boots, pointy sandals and high heels. PVC details, patent leather and metallic outlines underline openings and cuts completing these amplified shapes. The bags have clean, sculpted silhouettes, soft and round or firmed and squared as small vanity or camera cases. Contradicting the strictness of the collection, white and yellow gold charms, applied on thin necklaces and bracelets, gather around wrists and hug necks. The unbalanced but seductively vital flash.

The Men Collection is a frenzy of pulsating lights and their reflections in the mobile obscurity of wet asphalt in a buzzing metropolis. The accelerated rhythm of his nervous steps crossing the city. He’s a dynamic man, his silhouette the product of overlaying fabrics. Nothing is as it appears: his style is that of a chameleon, displaying innate sense of style and independence of thought. The urban face of modernity: reversible garments, modular and multipurposed.

Leather is rendered “technical” by rubberization. A new hybrid, redefining the aesthetics of modern luxury by associating the idea of functionality with the value of exclusivity. Tailoring becomes absolutely technical. The reversible pea-coat is made of leather backed by felt, the

blouson is double-sided nappa with a removable shearling lining, while the rain cape has been enriched by a sumptuous lining of cashmere cloth with leather trimming.

His eyewear is a mixture of different materials: rubberized plastic, metal and tortoise shell, perfectly matching his rubberized’ metal watch, high chronographic performance yet with a sporty attitude. The knitwear is a triumph of 3D texturing, very high collars and striking patterns. Tactile sensations are created by high-tech neoprene, together with wool and silk yarn, by layering knitwear and with the reassuring touch of baize. The colours of the collection converge with the intensity of sheer black, saturating a range of greys such as Gun Metal and Storm, blue hues such as Blue Graphite and Midnight Blue, green tones like Night Green and Hurry Green, and ultimately Black Bean. Isolated flashes of colour maximize effect: azure, ice and Ferragamo red.

A detailed process of creative experimentation: the new derby, the ankle boot and the mid-boot, accented with two-tone multi-layer rubber soles, their “tank tread” designed for perfect stability. Exceptional elegance on the urban asphalt. This pure experimentation is applied to bags, crossing the border that divides craftsmanship and technology. This transformational vortex applies sophisticated new textures to leather, as shown with the soft bimaterial

(rubberized and natural) duffle bag, the multi-purpose tote with contrasting piping, and the backpack, a masculine key piece with generous volume.