Roberto Cavalli AW2013/14 @ One Collection Many Characters

Carpets, velvet, mirrors, design: this is the modern Gentleman’s Club proposed in a penthouse of Piazza San Babila, in the heart of Milan. A sumptuous and glamorous setting between sartorial tradition and new languages of communication. The new collection, is displayed on sartorial busts ready to be touched, discovered and “savoured” in its most exquisite nuances. Different concepts within one location: each of them with its distinct and defined character, highlighted by the powerful and majestic images of British photographer Rankin, (www.rankin.co.uk), one of the most influential figures in photography and communication of the last two decades, who mastered and managed to display the unanimous impact of the new creations when they are worn.

Undoubtedly many different male characters: the goal is to please a variegated audience and in particular those who, for various reasons, have always steered away from fashion. In line with the Cavalli heritage, the collection could only begin from prints, which are approached in an innovative, allusive and experimental way.

Snakes, alligators, lizards, leathers and feathers are placed and artistically reassembled thanks to the magnetic ability of a teleidoscope which disassembles an image by reinstating fragments of reality.  Small prints conquer the ties, which are recovered with a new conviction, almost playful, and continue on the silky pant itself, the shirt and infinitesimally on the jacquard tuxedo jacket. The tuxedo, an inevitable and must item in the wardrobe of every modern gentleman. Symbolical in the present collection which envisions an accessorized tuxedo room (similar to a wardrobe) enriched with bow-ties, cufflinks, silk scarves and slippers. It is also symbolic to reinforce the change in roles.

The formal-wear, starting with the tuxedo, becomes more accessible and is worn without rigidity, interrupted for example by a bow-tie placed under the collar (or substituted by a jewel button) or by a pair of ironic rhinestone slippers. The casual-wear instead becomes rigorous, starting from the denim jackets with quilted sleeves or soft crocodile leather. The collection is characterized by dark tones, unveiling colors (deep red and jade green) as if they were suddenly illuminated by strobe lights. The jackets are shorter, the revers tighter, the pants softer at the waist and on the thighs then become tighter at the ankles.  A lot of astrakhan is presented on the coats and the collars. Golden slippers and iron studs placed as scales on the shoes.