2013-12-09

ETRO @ AW2013 Women Collection

ETRO AW2013 Women Collection, Veronica Etro creates a fantasy stage where global and cultural influences freely co-mingle, unhindered by time or geography. From cathedral vaults and Renaissance ceilings, to 19th century ethnic textiles and Russian ceramics, tradition is at the root of the collection. The richness of these time-honored techniques and ancient aesthetics, however, are shot into the 21st century with clean lines and a modern, at times even futuristic, glaze. The result is a decorative yet strong vision of femininity, where a powerful woman freely travels and customizes, creating her own sense of history and identity.
Prints, an Etro hallmark, are newly animated this season. Digital techniques allow for a fusion and combustion of pattern where one melts, fades or distorts into another. Traditional print motifs, with old-world depth, fall to the background and are partially covered in bold, irreverent swipes of graphic black slashes or a fl ash of dark void. Layers of repeated pixels create a sort of cyber pattern, while asymmetrical mutations of signature paisleys and classic tie prints yield a new visual velocity. Starry constellations are referenced in subtle web-like motifs and explosions of light that fade into nebulous mist.
Fabric is essential to the print story this season are intricate, micro bead embroideries that create an unusual, luxury-crusted and pattern rich surface decoration. Intarsia of luxurious materials are a key construction technique, like printed technical tulle net interspersed with wool and leather on a roomy overcoat, or jacquards with intricate texture. New technical fabrics provide a compact, stretchy body while heavy silk cady offers a modern, clean canvas for print.
 A sporty influence and clean, simple shapes bring a measured balance to the collection, tempered by blocks of cobalt, grape, cranberry, marigold and coral. Black leather inserts and belts with silver stud closures break or frame pattern, while hefty zips and matte black snaps add an urban edge. Key silhouettes include a cropped, slightly fl ared three-tone leather motorcycle pant, and ski-slope inflected pants and sweaters, both featuring padding, stitching and color blocking. Long sleeve dresses are cut to the knee or fall to the ground in a backless column. Pleated, slight A-line skirts have a new kilt construction, with zip closures and fl aps. Jackets are slimly cut while the outerwear has a new oversized volume.
Accessories this season mimic the sportiness, decorative effects and layers of the clothing. Pointy toe stilettos with sci-fi spur heels feature colored leather straps that wrap high around the ankle. The new postman bag features 3-D collages of leather or is covered in micro beaded animal patterns. Motorcycle bags, in sturdy handbag or clutch versions, feature graphic blocks of color, padding and stitching, while a hard metal enamel clutch has been distorted. The look is fi nished with fl at, shiny shots of gold or platinum.

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