Max Mara @ FW2013/14 Collection

MAX MARA FW2013/14 collection are both modern and modernist and revolves around those values of practical elegance and functional simplicity that have always been an essential part of the Italian group’s heritage. These concepts, deeply rooted in the DNA of the house, echo the founding principles of Bauhaus, the famous German school that set the standard for all innovative movements in the field of art, architecture and industrial production, and with which Max Mara has traditionally felt a strong affinity.

 This fellow feeling runs deeper than a mere inspiration for the season, and is evident, for example, in the balance of industrial production and craft tradition that underlies this collection. We find it in items such as the duffle coats and overcoats, designed with an authentically architectural focus and featuring sophisticated leather patches and stitching that highlights the round shape of the shoulders.

 It is apparent in the articles with an innovative volume, the fruit of extensive research into invariably fine-quality,“voluminous” materials that are often combined in the same outfits, such as the maxi-cable cashmere, camelhair and cashmere fabrication, velvet and shearling, or the brand-new camel fabrics (spun alpaca, with a soft feel reminiscent of fur, or mouflon wool), ideal for creating structured shapes that are ultra-soft, enveloping and easy to wear.

The colour schemes owe much to Walter Gropius (as well as to Max Mara) and feature the full range of urban greys, from stone and cement through to blue and black – plus an intense touch of yellow, also found on the jacquard knit or yarn-dyed stripes that replace prints. And then of course we have the icon camel colour and the new vicuna.

 A chic, relaxed “daily look” is highlighted by the styling: a layered look composed of overcoats, among them some of the pieces from the new techno-sartorial project Max Mara City. Cardigan coats, blousons, cocoon bombers, sweaters and oversize jackets, worn on top of one another over fluid trousers, tight pencil skirts or dresses that are ultra-feminine yet inspired by the masculine-style blazer.

This look also transfers effortlessly into the evening, with its velvet and knit tunics, blazers and pyjama pants lightly dusted with Lurex. To top off the look, ladylike Boston bags in leather or crocodile print and sneakers where you would least expect them, in luxury materials such as suede and python leather, with gorgeous tone on tone looks that make them this season’s new Max Mara cult item.