Paco Rabanne SS2013 collection was captivated by the powerful history and the magic of
the House. What sparked such emotion? After studying the archives, Lydia Maurer was
captivated by these freewheeling, seductive Paco Rabanne's dancing girls. These
spectacular dresses created on the living silhouette echoing the movement of
the woman wearing them. This exacting work of materials combining hand and
technique, noble and ordinary weaving along with architectural, crafted and
experimental metal. Such is the Paco Rabanne rhythm: rebellious and powerful.
For her first collection, the Artistic Director defines the Paco Rabanne woman. Today’s woman who encompasses the eroticism of Marisa Berenson and Anita Pallenberg, two leading muses of the House with undeniable modernity. Lydia Maurer nurtured her imagination with photographs by Guy Bourdin, compressions by César, the "Girlfriends" of Richard Prince, "Nudes" by Jean Clemmer, and the bewitching magic of The Doors.
Behind
the Seventies influence, appear the reminiscences of an eternal silhouette, the
one created by Paco Rabanne. It distills his obsessions and remarkable cuts for
a renewed wardrobe where jackets, coats, pants and accessories complete the
iconic wardrobe. The "kite" constructions of clothing are freely
inspired by Paco Rabanne sketches, produced during his architectural studies in
1959. Faceted shoulders go with geometric dresses with geometric constructions
and cut-outs that reveal the body.
The
"69" disc is more than a signature, it is a declaration reinterpreted
in supple and poetic guipure lace, hammered, embossed on technical silk,
recreated in folded silicone and arranged into an exotic flower.The
vibrant silhouette is enhanced with nuances of amethysts, emerald, jades, opals
and onyx that celebrate the dream-like universe of the film: "The
Inauguration of the Pleasure Dome" by Kenneth Anger. Pure
objects of desire, this Paco Rabanne collection elevates the accessory to the
rank of body adornments. Thigh-high sandals with interlaced leather straps
softly embrace the leg. The artist Taher Chemerik created jewelry pieces in
transparent bubbles that adorn the ear and in welded torch brass, that wrap
around the arm. A precious assembly of ordinary materials, brass and plastic,
cover the bust as a sensual armor.
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