2013-03-18

Paco Rabanne @ SS2013 Collection

Paco Rabanne SS2013 collection was captivated by the powerful history and the magic of the House. What sparked such emotion? After studying the archives, Lydia Maurer was captivated by these freewheeling, seductive Paco Rabanne's dancing girls. These spectacular dresses created on the living silhouette echoing the movement of the woman wearing them. This exacting work of materials combining hand and technique, noble and ordinary weaving along with architectural, crafted and experimental metal. Such is the Paco Rabanne rhythm: rebellious and powerful.
For her first collection, the Artistic Director defines the Paco Rabanne woman. Today’s woman who encompasses the eroticism of Marisa Berenson and Anita Pallenberg, two leading muses of the House with undeniable modernity. Lydia Maurer nurtured her imagination with photographs by Guy Bourdin, compressions by César, the "Girlfriends" of Richard Prince, "Nudes" by Jean Clemmer, and the bewitching magic of The Doors. 

Behind the Seventies influence, appear the reminiscences of an eternal silhouette, the one created by Paco Rabanne. It distills his obsessions and remarkable cuts for a renewed wardrobe where jackets, coats, pants and accessories complete the iconic wardrobe. The "kite" constructions of clothing are freely inspired by Paco Rabanne sketches, produced during his architectural studies in 1959. Faceted shoulders go with geometric dresses with geometric constructions and cut-outs that reveal the body.

 The "69" disc is more than a signature, it is a declaration reinterpreted in supple and poetic guipure lace, hammered, embossed on technical silk, recreated in folded silicone and arranged into an exotic flower.The vibrant silhouette is enhanced with nuances of amethysts, emerald, jades, opals and onyx that celebrate the dream-like universe of the film: "The Inauguration of the Pleasure Dome" by Kenneth Anger. Pure objects of desire, this Paco Rabanne collection elevates the accessory to the rank of body adornments. Thigh-high sandals with interlaced leather straps softly embrace the leg. The artist Taher Chemerik created jewelry pieces in transparent bubbles that adorn the ear and in welded torch brass, that wrap around the arm. A precious assembly of ordinary materials, brass and plastic, cover the bust as a sensual armor. 

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