6 Minutes @ Olivier Rousteing

Since his first runway collection SS2012 as the house’s Designer, Olivier Rousteing maintained Balmain’s couture signature, with a focus on complex embellishment and bold, new proportions. Here come his FW2012/13 collection with “Shape and details” mesmerized by the Faberge egg in blue and gold that Richard Burton gave Elizabeth Taylor on display at Christie’s. The 26-year-old designer came to Hong Kong recently to officiate the opening of the Harbour City store, Rousteing had a face to face chat with mylifestylenews of his fashion's evolution and inspiration for his new role as Balmain Creative Director......

 

 

 

When I was visiting New York for the first time in December,  I was mesmerized by the Faberge egg in blue and gold that Richard Burton gave Elizabeth Taylor on display at Christie’s. The beauty and simplicity of the Faberge egg’s form and ornamentation gace me the inspiration to revisit the codes of Balmain and to define shape and refine details in new ways with this collection.

I started with a sharp, strong new take on the Balmain jacket and I viewed the jacket as a square canvas, and crafted it so it retained its architectural lines but was transformed through technique into a three-dimensional ornamented object, a beautiful frame for a women’s face.

 

This statement in silhouette, a razor sharp tailoring with an oversized ease is completed with a more fluid Balmain pant, or a more tailored cropped boyish pant when paired with a perfecto jacket and vest.

As the Balmain atelier delved deeper into Faberge’s heritage, the Russian ornamentation and cossack tailoring infused the collection. The ornate design of orthodox ecclesiastical vestments, precious porcelain and rich palace interiors are combined in sumptuous displays of complex, layered pattern.

 

I was also amazed by the abundance of pearls in Elizabeth Taylor's collection. She was a goddess with highly dramatic style.

 

High collar, hourglass velvet dresses are a base for a constellation of large pearl and diamond embroidery also inspired by the architecture of Russian churches, and the Balmain sweatshirt is covered with icy Fabergé pattern and cross stitch tapestry cameos. A soft pyjama suit is adorned in Balmain form.

 

 

 

 

 

Velvet also stars in this collection in new embossed patterning, or devoré, for sharp tailoring, body dressing and in combinations with polished, pastel leather for tooled jackets and pants. Soft kid leather, grain de poudre wools, pony skin and satin mix freely and work on their own, or with embellishment, in a play of rich dark and icy pastels in petrol blue, billiard green and black blush pink, peach, sky blue, mint and white.

 

Balmain is one of the most emblematic Parisian couture houses. Throughout its long history, Balmain has managed to retain its unique position as both a historic French house and as a leading trendsetting brand that others look to as a reference. I am so lucky to be able to work in such a rich heritage fashion house.
 

As you know, Balmain began his career in fashion as an assistant to master Parisian couturier Lucien Lelong, working alongside fellow greats Christian Dior and Hubert de Givenchy. He left Lelong to establish his own house in the autumn of 1945. Balmain’s signature “Jolie Madame” style offered a startling contrast to the relaxed and utilitarian looks of the day – and its immediate popularity made clear that French women were eager to free themselves from the remaining vestiges of wartime hardship and embrace Balmain’s boldly feminine and opulent offerings.
 
In recent years, Balmain has become one of the world’s most influential fashion brands, celebrated for its sophisticated mix of Parisian chic and glamour aesthetic.The house is present in all major markets and carried in prestigious department stores and multi-brand boutiques all over the world.

For this store opening in Hong Kong , we are showcasing 6 selected pieces from the past collections of the house. The designs are from a series of great designers of the house including founder of the brand Pierre Balmain, Erik Mortensen, Oscar de la Renta and Christophe Decarnin.

I am now responsible for the studio for both Men’s and Women’s ready-to-wear collections after working at Roberto Cavalli for five years.

  

As a Parisian, I love to move around, I love to travel and borrow fashion ideas from capitals around the world.

 

I am always influence by the unique confident style of contemporary Parisians as well as the work of the masters who have guided Balmain before him. I incorporate the tailoring, embroidery and techniques of classical French couture into the collections.

 

Pierre Balmain stressed that his first objective was “to always dress women in the right look for the right moment,” I will then create the designs that chime with the way women are dressing now.

 

I pay lots of attention to hand wrought details and find a balance in a very modern silhouette. All designs include a very healthy dollop of Parisian insouciance. The Balmain look reflects the way that the most fashionable citizens of the French capital wish to dress.

 

I am trying to remain the luxury and he richness of Balmain tailoring craftsmanship and add more glam rock and funky elements in the design in which that is very close to my very own style design.

 

I like to design a powerful and strong couture pieces. Sexy yet elegance, chic and stylish translate the dream of happiness, Comfortable design and practical. I like to see the wearer can wear it everyday and showing their confident while putting it on. Women shoulders are sexy and I like to have some structure design elements to bring out the best in them.

 

 

I like to design more timeless couture pieces for different women's age group as age defines different style in different women and a Balmain woman shall have their very own identity even she mix and match with other outfit. A very strong and identical Balmain character shall be imposed.

Tailoring in Balmain is the key elements in every design. It is not only bringing out the best silhouette in a women but also the perfect attitude in them.

Many people think of Balmain with lots of black, grey, white as Balmain's color. In fact, this season you can see some midnight blue color. There will be more other colors to be added into future collection.

The basic key element for Balmain's style is the jacket. It is so full of attitude and very expressive. The material is refined and identical.

I design style instead of creating a trend. I try to find the balance in term of the creation. It has to be very wearable and practical but not only look good on stage.

Fashion is not just meant for only one day but it shall be an on going process. Everyone shall create and twist with their own style.

 

 

 

One day when the time is right, I would also like to have a collaboration with a high street fashion brand to create an affordable luxury collection.

 

For Balmain to enter Asia and China market is indeed a wise move. That even inspires us more with multi cultural creation from Balmain's Heritage.

 

If I were not in fashion designing fields, I would like to play music, sing and perhaps become a singer.

 

My ideal living lifestyle is to be able to travel every moth and meet up with new people. Gym, clubbing, dancing and personal holiday is also very important to me.

 

   

 

mylifestylenews @ Olivier Rousteing