MAX & Co. @ FW2012 Collection

MAX & Co. FW2012 collection is an unexpected elegance composed of luxurious materials and soft, comfortable shapes. The jogging pants in crêpe de Chine have become sophisticated, while the oversize knits play with weights and volumes. Masculine bomber jackets in shearling lambswool and biker jackets sporting details in fake fur take on a whole new and surprising allure. The color palette features earth tones, from brick to rust, from flesh-tone to dove-gray, mixed and layered. The accessories also reinterpret the codes defining urban chic, thanks to roomy handbags, large structured clutches, biker boots and booties with dizzyingly high heels.

The uniforms of boarding schools and Swinging London. A ladylike look with a retro panache combined with a mix 'n' match that evokes the 70’s, a rich mosaic that composes an easygoing, clean style composed of evergreen classics: kilts in all their manifestations, cabled knits and ones sporting multicolor stripes, calf-length pants and corduroy overalls, while the overcoats are slender and tapered or full-cut and comfortable. Tartan plaids serve as a leitmotif, worn both with diaphanous micro-jackets in fur as well as pea coats. The look is topped off by large berets in warm wool, satchels and loafers in leather, flat or high-heeled versions.

 

During the Nineties the grunge movement which started in Seattle convulsed the entire popular culture, everything from music to fashion: nothing would be the same again. And that same tumultuous mood is once again in the wind, mitigated this time around, though, in terms of contents and spirit. Purged of the rage, the approach is based on an alternation of weights and consistencies which end up uniting highly diverse elements that would appear to be irreconcilable. One finds parkas with hoods trimmed in fur worn over demure long tunics in slinky georgette and full skirts in pleated chiffon paired with biker jackets in shearling and leather. Harsh black is mitigated by dusty prints as the body is revealed in a beguiling game that defines a whole new silhouette. Opposites attract one another.

 

 

The overcoat, the key component of any wardrobe, the perfect mirror of the wearer’s taste and personality, the emblem of an enduring style that transcends ephemeral trends. Each cut, fold and draped effect reveals impeccable, finely crafted tailoring, spanning a number of different periods and design visions. From riding coats with a Seventies flair that highlight the waist to short, flared A-line overcoats with a Sixties appeal. From innovative egg-shaped volumes inspired by the 40’s and brilliant colors of the 60’s to intricate geometric patterns. Contoured to the body and in solid tones they create unexpected visual effects, especially if combined with fur trim and collars. The accessories oscillate between classic forms and unusual materic combinations. The cloche hats are in felt, the pumps and boots feature squared toes. Both sport lizard-effect detailing, like heels and visors. Always impeccable.

 

Aquamarine, pale yellow, beige and lavender. There’s a return to the ladylike colors, perfect for evoking a dainty, sweet femininity while making a vivacious, playful fashion statement. One starts with the 60’s, from that balance struck between formal elegance and a bold, daring spirit. The stylistic inspirations and solutions have been revamped and imbued with a stunningly contemporary flair. The overcoat is fastened by a bow that frames the face, the short skirts have been embellished with asymmetrical flounces that flutter about the legs, the hips are swathed, the shapes of the body highlighted but not openly vaunted, and the chromatic combinations, even the ones that are apparently most daring, have actually been toned down, lightened and mitigated.