Emporio Armani @ FW2012/13 Collection

EMPORIO ARMANI FW2012/13 Women collection is playing on clothes, fun little touches of pure fantasy: the more the search for form is calibrated, the more the collection becomes a surprising interpretation of pieces, mixed with lightness and freedom.The common element, which completely changes the silhouette, are the trousers that end at the knee with a brand new cuff-effect, finished off as always with opaque hose. The jackets have straight, masculine shoulders that give a sense of strength to a soft, unstructured line, which is also seen in the cardigans. The colour palette, which includes black, white, Indian red and amethyst blue, has the iridescence of velvet, and is also reflected in the abstract brushstroke-effect print.

Valance and large flat taffeta roses create surprising effects: constructing technical garments that seem as thick as a fur coat, with smooth sleeves (still in taffeta). Just two of these flattened roses are needed to close a blouse: a functional decoration, used also for knitted and low-cut dresses made all the more unpredictable by the addition of Bermudas. The entire collection is animated by fun, ironic touches, infusing lightness, and which, like true folies d'hiver, allude to the style of the Roaring Twenties: belts that create mini-basques, worn occasionally two at a time; tulle T-shirts with sequinned stripes; fringes; sequins embroidered onto tulle; basques; and jet necklaces.

  

  

    

Extraordinary bags and shoes: long, tambourine-shaped shoulder bags, like huge powder compacts; handbags of floral velvet or velvet combined with net mesh. Flat slippers with floral fabric toes, and shiny masculine lace-up shoes.

 

 

The Men's collection is defined as being all about the interior world of the wearer with austere expression of deep, conceptual sentiments, revealing the essence of a style that is pure to its very roots. Having surpassed the synthetic brilliance of nylon and the ease of sportswear, only the compact opaqueness of wool remains.

  

  

The depths of black, ebony-brown, anthracite and smoke-grey are occasionally emphasized by an unexpected contrasting white cloth lining. The duffle coat is back, this time with Emporio Armani proportions (the length is 125cm). Pea coats in triple-overlapping cloth have a generous shape, while the deconstructed jackets are more long-line. The shirts show an extraordinary attention to detail, with a touch of flannel, or other contrasting cloth, at the neck and wrists. Softest sheepskin and magnificent double leather make up generous garments with a hidden double- breasted closure. The unusual tone-on-tone digital print suggests the veining of a tree trunk, adding imperceptible vibrations of colour to dark velvets.

  

   

A collection of essential colours and garments, reflecting a discipline of thought and conduct. The seventy is accentuated by the clean lines of the bags, briefcases and striking, large rigid berets.