《6 Minutes @ Patrick Lee》

Patrick Lee, the new General Manager of Paul Smith Hong Kong talks us through the latest Paul Smith FW2012/13 collection during one sunny afternoon at a beautiful look out of Hong Kong Harbour in Galerie Perrotin. Lee's new challenge with the renown British brand takes him to another prominence mileage from his previous work experience in one of Hong Kong premium departmental stores, Lee has his say......

 

 

Paul Smith is one of Britain’s leading fashion designers and renowned for his idiosyncratic take on traditional British styling - 'classic with a twist'. He has the ability to anticipate and spark trends, not only in fashion but often in the wider context of popular culture.

 

Beside the Paul Smith Men's & Women's AW12 Mainline Collection, there are also Paul Smith London, Paul by Paul Smith, Paul Smith Jeans, PS by Paul Smith, Paul Smith Women Black Label and the latest collaboration projects including the Special Edition Shoes Collaboration with British bootmaker John Lobb plus the Capsule Collection of Paul Smith Jeans x Barbour. 

 

For Paul Smith Men's mainline, this AW2012 draws inspiration from the deep sea. Classic maritime styles are reworked to create modern, elegant shapes. The palette is luxurious; the predominate colour of darkest navy is matched with dark emeralds and browns, punctuated by contrasting panels of vivid neon yellow, orange and reflective scotchlite trims. Prints are bold, bright and graphic; shark’s teeth, jelly-fish and corals prints are central to the collection and are seen on both shirting and trousers.

 

Paul Smith Women's mainline captures the heydays of highborn elegance and starry glamour. Embracing the tuxedo and smoking suit as the keystone of the show, the collection offers a sumptuous fusion of traditional tailoring with a rich melange of palettes and textures. Highlighting the contrasting feel and finish of heritage cloths and yarns, barley checks and luxurious Prince of Wales motifs are layered alongside two-tone flannels, mohair and merino wools.

 

The Silhouettes maintain a simple, contemporary ease with oversized outerwear shapes and heavily pleated trousers which enhance Paul Smith’s modern, masculine aesthetic for women. Sensual silk dresses, to the floor and heavy with crystals, add decadence. Sheer blouses with contrasting wing collars are worn with crushed velvet skinny pants and jackets.

 

Paul Smith London draws inspiration from the quintessential British lifestyle. Classical British tailoring remains the foundation of the collection, yet contemporary details such as exclusive linings give a modern twist.  A dark colour palette of blues and greys dominate the collection, seen in classic tweeds and flannel cloths.

 

Alongside classic fit single and double breasted tailoring, shorter jackets with smaller cuffs are seen. Evening wear remains key, classic tuxedos are complimented with a collection of velvet jackets and waistcoats. Shirting comes in classic and slim shapes, offered in both single and double cuffs in a variation of stripes, checks and prints. The outerwear has an increased presence in the London collection; raincoats, parkas, quilted and leather jackets feature alongside single breasted wool Epsom coats.

 

 

 

Paul by Paul Smith is a youthful, free spirited collection that epitomises the quirky sensibility of Paul Smith. Its understated style and wit is identified by bold, simple pieces that form an exciting and contemporary laid-back wardrobe.

It offers a carefree collection of individual staples and separates aimed to complement the way that modern women dress by mixing quirky detailing and direction with high quality classic casuals and denim.

This season,Paul by Paul Smith captures a sense of youth and attitude, inspired by the spirit of a modern breed of travellers and rebel youth in the 50’s and 60’s whose subversive lifestyles and desire for sustainability and individuality created an effortless style, combining pop culture with defiant glamour in a rich mix of colours and textures. 

The Paul Smith Jeans collection takes inspiration from the ‘Stonemasters’; a group of climbers in the late seventies and early eighties who pioneered the art of free climbing. The group climbed in the most basic sportswear, making new garments from reworked sleeping bags and military surplus jackets when needed.

The outerwear takes basic sportswear details and updates them, the most notable piece being a reworked sleeping bag jacket with sheep skin pockets and collar, and leather reinforced elbows. Wool donkey jackets, parkas and hooded smocks are also strong styles in outerwear this season.

The prints continue the outdoor theme; a moon and star print runs throughout the collection, featuring on both jacquard linings and shirting. A washed out flora and fauna print is also seen on chambray shirts. The colour palette of the collection is dark; midnight black, charcoal greys and damsons sit alongside rich autumnal shades of burnt red, green and taupes.

PS by Paul Smith has a focus on contemporary styles and fabrics with strong, modern and detailed tailoring being central to the collection. A narrower silhouette is seen, with shoulders lines brought in and sleeves slimmed. An exclusive spot lining graces suit jackets and trim details.

The colour palette is dark; tones of purple, green, blue and damson feature alongside black, navy and grey, punctuated with tones of jade, indigo and red with subtle neon highlights.

 

 

 

Paul Smith Black combines luxurious tailoring with definitive, modern separates creating a strong feminine sensibility. Effortlessly identified by its witty twist on desirable classics, the essence of Black is highlighted in its confident, youthful attitude and contemporary style.

This season draws influence from Peter Lindbergh’s photographs. His naturalist style is echoed throughout the collection, which shares a sense of effortless elegance. The expected and the unexpected are explored through a textural use of contrasting fabrics and tones.

Tailoring shapes are elongated with clean shoulders, creating a long and lean silhouette. Tuxedo detailing has been added to printed and solid colour suiting and dresses, with shawl lapels in tonal contrasts and leather and jacquard trims. Pleat front trousers are key for a relaxed yet feminine fit.

Oversized silk shirts are updated with open next jacket reveres, lace collars and pleated front detailing to create a laid-back evening option. Dresses and skirts are fitted with waistcoat cinched detailing and added sheer organza panelling, whilst maxi styles are trimmed with pleated georgette lace.

Wool cashmere with shearling panel placements are warm and luxurious outerwear options. Knitted sleeve jackets, cropped zip front bombers and quilted leathers are stylish new additions. Traditional outerwear is seen on classic longer length coats and soft wrap jackets, creating clean and easy shapes.  British herringbone tweeds combined with contrasting panels add texture.



 

After spending several years in a luxurious departmental store focusing on refined Men's tailoring suit and made-to-order service to create a certain character and personality of his own. That allowed me to understand what a gentleman needs when they look for a real proper suit. From the lining to the unlined requirement, the traditional tailoring, the pocket, the silhouette and etc which are euqally essential for tailoring a perfect suit.

 

People like to be stimulated visually by expressing themselves through clothes and take pleasure in having something that's rare. Joining this big family allows me to have 360 degree to expose to the full range of the brand thoroughly.

 

Luxury and desire is what people get obsessed with, Paul Smith designs' full range of collection provides a 360 degree for everyone to access.

 

The brand essence are the little details either hidden internally or having a hint of color on the garment. It fun with humor and alluding a small message to create a talking point or a story to tell.

 

My favorite possession is my vintage watch.

 

My ideal living lifestyle is to be myself, to me cheerful + color = Happiness.

 

   

mylifestylenews @ Patrick Lee, General Manager of Paul Smith Hong Kong