LOEWE moved their entire full SS2012 collection together with the made-to-order trunk show to Hong Kong 18 days right after the show kicked off in Paris. A huge tent took days to set up for the one-night-only fashion show with mini exhibition paying tribute to all LOEWE masters of leather by having one of their craftsmen showing the skillful work on how LOEWE leather bags are made by hand stitching with sophistication. The exclusive presentation attracted hundreds of guests flown in from around to witness this one of a kind event with eye opening perspective of knowledge onto the brand's renowned leather products followed by a well received and tremendous applause full collection of SS2012 runway show and after party on the rooftop deck.
Coincidentally, this year marks the 75th anniversary of Dutch mathematician M. C. Escher´s visit to the Alhambra in Granada, where his sketches of architectural tiled patterns informed his greatest work. His geometric puzzles are intertwined with the Andalusian region’s wealth of multicultural heritage, inspiring our bold print statement. Garments are primarily constructed out of printed silk and leather. These materials are the cornerstones of the brand, which are originally found in exquisite scarves and accessories and now part of the handwriting of the house’s ready-to-wear. Linear designs prevail both in terms of the collection’s silhouette and surface. Geometric motifs are featured either as perforations in skins, etched into hardware or on engineered prints (a placement print that is individual to each garment using the same technique as the house’s silk squares). The colour palette is purposefully reduced to white, navy, black and earth tones. These give boldness and clarity to the prints and silhouettes.
Intricate cutting techniques enhance a lean and column-like form juxtaposed with the occasional oversize jacket orspring coat. Dresses and shirts in silk jersey and twill also feature light-hearted lizard prints. The creatures are both indigenous to the Southern Spanish region and heavily featured in Escher´s geometry, providing an organic touch amongst strict lines. Perforated leathers and stitched suede strips that give the print story a textural dimension and lends lightness to the leather by providing vents within the garments’ structures. A sumptuous reversible nappa featured in the first looks is a new material developed in the Loewe workshops. It is employed in single skinned garments that, when reversed, reveal a soft suede surface. The skin is Loewe´s lightest ever and acts as a showcase for Loewe´s mastery of leather both in terms of innovation and cultivated craft. Knitwear pieces include a large-scale cable knit sweater made modern and summery with engineered gaps mapped into a cotton-silk surface. A hand-knitted suede and nappa tape is combined with cotton for an unexpected spring sweater that is both textured and graphic.
The jewellery is focused on bangles in fresh tones, a Loewe mainstay. This season's features delicately crafted glinting enamel details that evoke glazed ceramic tile walls. The patchwork-colouration of the footwear in exotic skins matches that of the printed and embellished garments, further enforcing the geometry of architectural building blocks. The bags are crafted out of noblest materials – suede, calf, crocodile and lizard. There is an emphasis on suede finish. Even the lizard and crocodile have sueded finishes to ensure that the materials are as supple as they can be. There is no decorative hardware, everything is functional, and intricate leather detailing on locks means that metal is only used as a glinting accent. The bags employ a handcrafted artisanal finish, whip-stitching, meaning the parts of the bag are assembled with hand-worked leather instead of thread. The versatile, soft and practical ‘Granada’ shoulder bag, shown in three sizes, is the prominent new season shape.
No comments:
Post a Comment